<body><script type="text/javascript"> function setAttributeOnload(object, attribute, val) { if(window.addEventListener) { window.addEventListener('load', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }, false); } else { window.attachEvent('onload', function(){ object[attribute] = val; }); } } </script> <div id="navbar-iframe-container"></div> <script type="text/javascript" src="https://apis.google.com/js/platform.js"></script> <script type="text/javascript"> gapi.load("gapi.iframes:gapi.iframes.style.bubble", function() { if (gapi.iframes && gapi.iframes.getContext) { gapi.iframes.getContext().openChild({ url: 'https://www.blogger.com/navbar/12988030?origin\x3dhttp://donttrustsnakes.blogspot.com', where: document.getElementById("navbar-iframe-container"), id: "navbar-iframe" }); } }); </script>


DON’T

TRUST

SNAKES


“I know where I'm headed.”
ROGER THORNHILL


Thursday, May 22, 2008

Monsoon season


I'm in the process of deciding how much weight to give to the common guidebook advice about when not to travel to India: monsoon season. My initial thoughts are that I should go when I can go, guidebooks to unfamiliar places cater to the risk-averse mean of Western travelers, and the monsoon is apt to be very manageable. It is, as our parents and Peter Gabriel used to say, only water.
Why on earth would you ignore advice that is so, so ubiquitous? A quick google search revealed that Delhi averages half an inch of rain a day during August, or basically a constant downpour. Not exactly amenable to walking around and taking pictures, imo. - MWR's old friend
Well, goodness, MWR's old friend, why on earth does MWR do half the things MWR does? One reason is that I love to dispute accepted wisdom (though long a convert to, and even an owner of, proper evening dress for gentlemen). I'm conscious of how this contraphilia can prejudice me. Still, when writers go on and on about the breadth and diversity of the subcontinent, and then somewhere pronounce "don't go in the summer," it's the irony that always stands out. Shall writers consider whether readers will be somewhere when August means 25 wet days and two feet of rain, or is it more like 12 rainy days and ten inches? I'm not thinking about Mumbai during this period, though it might be epic. Are writers considering that overcast days are best for my photography? No, they are considering that rainy days will reduce my chances of having the guidebook-template trip most readers likely have in mind. I'm an outlier. And I can deal with some rain, for God's sake. I won't have come all that way to sit inside waiting for the Cat in the Hat to come entertain me. My guess is that it's not a "constant downpour," but more episodic and heavy rain. That's the pattern I expect to see in warm areas with high rainfall totals.

A few years ago, though web postings, I was decisive in convincing a NYC-based photographer that he should come to Olympic National Park in October. His impression had been that it would be raining all the time, but I was able to locate historical data suggesting it might not rain much at all on his proposed dates in the park:
Looking at the dates of your trip during the 2000-2004 period, I count 10 days with recorded rainfall and 25 days without. On only four days out of the 35 was there rainfall in excess of two-tenths of an inch. This is in a place that averages about 117 inches of rain a year.

As you can gather, it typically does not rain incessantly on days when rainfall is recorded, so even if your weather were not ideal there would likely be significant periods when it was not raining. It is a safe assumption that it will be cloudy during your visit, but you might get lucky
Here, closer examination showed that an outsider's impression about some of our local weather was way off base. I'm not expecting this level of "clarification" about monsoon season on the central plains, but I'm comforted to read comments like this on a popular bulletin-board site for India travel:
There's really only one answer to any monsoon question: you might get wet, you might not. India's summer monsoon is usually an afternoon cloudburst, though sometimes you catch a spell where it rains for a few days straight. The monsoon is not a constant month-long deluge.

Labels: , ,

Monday, May 19, 2008

You try writing a headline for this one

My father intimated that I might encounter a blogging void when you know who finally does you know what, and suggested I could do a series of posts on "bottled water and other extremely weird things we consider 'normal.'" It warrants a label, at the very least. I think that, not being normal myself, I might have trouble with the "we" part (e.g., "deciding a pet is the thing we need"). I suggested that blogging itself belonged on any list of such weird things. It's too much to say that the impulses behind a lot of blogging are lost on me, but they sure don't resonate with me.

In particular, I don't get the "my public diary" impulse that brings us those neverending holiday letters of narcissism. I'm unusually private in all sorts of ways (openness has always seemed to me, in the Terminator's wonderful phrase, tactically dangerous), so I probably couldn't sustain a public diary even if I felt the call for one. Most of the things you would find interesting, I don't want you to know. Most of the things I wouldn't mind sharing, I can't be bothered to relate. The real reason you'll never see me using blog nicknames is that there are no characters in this blog—certainly not as I see it, though people will show up from time to time in anecdotes or to introduce topics.

I have forgotten why I started this entry, but maybe it was for the irony of using all that to preface the announcement that last week I decided I should really plan at trip to India, like, for real, not the sort of two-months-if-I-ever-can sort of trip I've had in mind since at least 2000 (to go by the date of my earliest guidebook). If two months is fanciful, I figure three weeks may not be, especially if I time it according to my likely slow time here (August), rather than seasonal weather patterns there. I'm still at the concept stage, but thinking about itineraries, whether I could pull it off with just a day pack (it could happen, but 40l might be more sensible), and the most critical question of which cameras and films to bring (no digital—life's too short). Three weeks is a "tweener" length of time to plan. I think it's a safe assumption that days of travel between cities will be mostly shot for other purposes, so I want to minimize those. It's a great advantage to be going by myself with little more ambitious agenda than doing a lot of photography I like. This means I can skip the standard tourist destinations (a certain building comes to mind) and spend time poking around lesser-known, less celebrated places, even those "of little interest." I'm having a hard time there being anything of little interest.

Most likely I would arrive in Delhi and stay in central and east-central areas, maybe departing from Calcutta to make the internal travel more linear. The only certain destination will be Varanasi. It could be interesting to dip into Orissa near the end on such an itinerary, but more than four internal travel days starts to seem like a material part of the whole trip. All suggestions are welcome in comments or by email to donttrustsnakes@gmail.com.

Nothing like talk of an India trip to divide people up. It's either a dream, or unfathomable, with very little middle ground.

Labels: , ,