Zagat Survey survey
I have an unbroken series of Zagat guides for New York City dating back to 1992 (told you I "keep" books). Although I haven't lived in NYC for many years, I like to be equipped to know what's going on there. Just as important, for some years I've fancied that my growing collection of guides is a "social document", giving its own "capsule summary" of changes in the culture of dining "and of fin-de-siècle New York City" ". . . nay, America."
Since 1994 (you'll see why), one of my first stops in each new edition, after "Noteworthy Closings" (2002: ". . . Wild Blue, Windows on the World"), has been the entry for the restaurant One if by land, two if by sea (in Zagat, ONE IF BY LAND, TIBS). I see it as an emblematic entry for monitoring continuity and change in dining and romantic mores. Also, I want to see if they'll ever top 1994.
So, because I love you dearly, and multitask well, I give you 16 years of entries for this restaurant, and a few other details about each year's book. There are treasures here if you know how to look.
- 1992 - $9.95 / 220pp
A "treasure for special occasions", this Continental West Villager may be the "most romantic around"; "candlelight, fresh flowers and piano music" set the scene, with a fireplace in winter and a garden in summer; critics citing "pretentious" staff, reservation "hassles" and "crowded" tables are a tiny minority. $52 [estimated cost of dinner plus one drink and tip] - 1993 - $9.95 / 220pp
"The perfect place to pop the question", this Village Continental in Aaron Burr's old house is a "romantic ideal" thanks to its fireplace, candlelight, fresh flowers, piano music and "three-star service"; try it on a "snowy night" or in the "lovely garden" in summer. $52 - 1994 - $10.95 / 219pp
"Breathtakingly romantic", at fireside in winter or by the garden in summer, Aaron Burr's old home in Greenwich Village is "always a treat", with "good Continental food" (try the signature beef Wellington), a "charming candlelit setting" and piano music; "if this doesn't get you laid, no place will." $51 - 1995 - $10.95 / 220pp
"It's Valentine's Day every day at this Village love nest"; lilting piano music, flowers, candlelight and flickering fireplaces all help make Aaron Burr's old home and garden "NYC's most romantic restaurant"; if you like beef Wellington, and most of our surveyors do, the food's "the best ever"; otherwise it's "like eating in Middle America—in 1975." $51 - 1996 - $11.95 / 236pp
Thanks to flowers, fireplaces, lilting piano music and "pampering service", this French-American in Aaron Burr's former Greenwich Village home is a contender for "NYC's most romantic restaurant"; detractors, and they are very few, find it all "too hovering, too rich." $54 - 1997 - $11.95 / 236pp
It's Valentine's Day year-round at this "most romantic" Village Continental that once was Aaron Burr's home and now seems to be NYers' favorite place to "pop the question"; if you're not in love, despite stiff prices, you might still fall for the signature "beef Wellington", the fireplaces, flowers and lilting piano music. $54 - 1998 - $11.95 / 252pp
This "most romantic" 1726 Village "townhouse", once owned by Aaron Burr, is a favorite "place to propose" with lilting piano music and firelight as a backdrop; it also has "sumptuous" Continental cuisine (try the signature beef Wellington); "starting an affair?, patching up after a fight?, keeping the flame burning?—this is the place." $57 - 1999 - $11.95 / 254pp
With its "red roses", lilting piano music and flickering firelight, this "elegant" 1726 Village Continental–New American townhouse sets such a "hopelessly romantic" mood that "you could fall in love with Saddam Hussein"; touted as the place to "get engaged", "make up", seduce or "celebrate", it's also an "excellent", if "pricey", place to eat. $58 - 2000 - $11.95 / 252pp
For the "ultimate date", this "flawless" restored Village townhouse that once belonged to Aaron Burr exudes "sheer romance" as "gorgeous flowers", flickering firelight and a pianist set the mood for a "sure score"; the reliably good, if pricey, New American–Continental menu is matched with "impeccable service", and the "beef Wellington and chocolate soufflés" are reputed to win hearts on their own. $60 - 2001 - $11.95 - 284pp
Ground zero for "proposing", whether marriage or something more risqué, this ultra-"romantic" Village townhouse, once Aaron Burr's home, ensures "you will get lucky" with its flowers, piano music and firelight; there's also "divine" beef Wellington and other "fine" Continental–New American fare, but given the $59 prix fixe tab, some feel "like Alexander Hamilton after getting the bill." VE - 2002 - $12.95 / 283pp
There's a "reason why people fall in love" after a meal at this "romantic" Village New American townhouse where Aaron Burr once lived; its intoxicating blend of "fresh roses, piano music", the "best beef Wellington anywhere" and a "cuddle by the fireplace" is so swoonworthy, it "ought to be underwritten by the Romance Channel" though you need to bring "big bucks" ($68 prix fixe only), "if you can't soften her up here, you're hopeless." $68 - 2003 - $12.95 / 284pp
"Romance abounds" ("heard two marriage proposals during dinner") at this candlelit "historic" Village landmark that once was Aaron Burr's carriage house [emphasis mine]; adorned with a balcony, fireplace, beautiful flowers and lilting music, it almost seems superfluous to mention that prix fixes are "just about perfect" and served served by staffers who "thoroughly spoil" you; but, while taking the loan to buy her ring, you'd better borrow extra to cover dinner. $70 - 2004 - $12.95 / 284pp
Savor the "ultimate romantic night out" at this "dreamy" Village New American set in Aaron Burr's former carriage house, famed for "atmospheric" "candlelit interludes" with "superb food" and "marvelous" service on the side; though you'll be "dropping big bucks", given everything "from the roses to the piano player", it "does wonders" as a casanova's "deal closer". $71 - 2005 - $13.95 / 286pp
Romeos looking for a "surefire" "deal-closer" know to "bring the diamond" to this über-"romantic" Village New American; once Aaron Burr's carriage house, it's an "enchanting" "candle- and flower-filled" setting for "sublime" prix fixe meals delivered by "tuxedoed" servers and accompanied by lovely piano music; sure, the bill might also bring you to your knees, but if the answer's "yes", it's surely "worth" it. $72 - 2006 - $13.95 / 286pp
www.oneifbyland.com
What with the "roses, candlelight" and "heavenly piano music", it simply "drips romance" at this "special-occasion" Village New American, once Aaron Burr's carriage house and now "marriage-proposal" central; "sumptuous" prix fixe-only menus and "white-glove service" complete the "magical" experience; though given the serious tabs, would-be grooms should "buy the ring first." $71 - 2007 - $14.95 / 316pp and a color map
www.oneifbyland.com
"Seal the deal" with "that special someone" at this "breathtaking" Village New American; transforming Aaron Burr's "Colonial" carriage house into the "apex of romance" with its "wonderful" prix fixe menu, "formal" service and "over-the-top" atmospherics; "gorgeously appointed" with flowers, candles and lilting piano music, it commands "quite a price", but she'll "say 'I do'"—or you can "give up." $73
O.K., female readers, I'm really curious how you would have reacted, circa 1994, if he'd asked you to dinner at this romantic former non-residence (I'm waiting for "stable" to show up one of these years), and then you whipped out your Zagat guide and encountered that entry. It could be fun to to screw with (metaphorically) your date, pulling out the guide, adopting a Cockney accent, asking him if he "fancied" he "would 'ave me knickers", etc. Perhaps only I would think of this possibility.
Labels: Only in Don't Trust Snakes
posted at 12:39 AM
3 Comments:
A delightful trip through the world of copywriting. The descriptions all sell "romance" in such a stage-y fashion that after reading them all one yearns for less goo and more authenticity.
I listened to a podcast about the making of Zagat's guides not long ago. I have to find it and link you. They were interviewing the editor and she was telling stories about people trying to buy their way into the books and......darn, gotta find that.
And of course we knew you had that collection...you probably troll eBay for the 1991 edition.
Hmmm. I went there on date in 1993, dinner before some graduation-related activity of my boyfriend's. I wasn't expecting a proposal and didn't get one, but the food, prices and romance factor were exactly as promised (he even ordered the beef Wellington!).
The only problem was that the multi-course dinner took about four hours from start to finish, and what with schlepping all the way downtown and back, the dance was almost over by the time we got there.
I believe that was also the same occasion on which, riding on the subway, he leaned over and whispered in my ear, "You are taller than every other person on this [full-ish] car." I was, and he was 8 inches taller still.
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